May 8, 2009

All Spiffed Up for Market!

Well, I have been busy sewing for myself (for a CHANGE) and it has been so fun! I made two new bags to take on our trip to market. One is a purse and the other a travel bag for reading, snacks, and probably a small knitting project for the plane, plus whatever else last minute stuff I decide I think I can't live without.

The first one I am going to show is from the Sara Satchel pattern. I decided to use the one-sided Peltex fusible in it instead of the buckram/fusible fleece combo and it worked great. I highly recommend this substitution if you are thinking about making this bag. Notice also that I decided not to crease the sides for a different look.


The next bag is from my new pattern, the Sylvia Sling. I used a mish-mash of fabrics on it this time in the three piece variation for the side. I am really liking the different fabrics together and how each side has its own personality. Note that this bag is loaded with my junk and still manages to look great!




I plan on getting another Olivia tunic length dress made to wear at market plus some skirts.....so nice to carve out some fun sewing time! Let me know what you think about these sewing adventures!!

Hope you have time to get some sewing in this weekend, and Happy Mother's Day to all of you hard working moms out there!!

May 6, 2009

New Designs for Spring

Hello All! It has been a while, and yes, I think I have a good excuse for that! I have been busy at work over the past six weeks preparing for Spring Market in Pittsburgh and continuting the work on the book. I can't believe that we will be on a plane this time next week! The booth stuff shipped yesterday, so I am pretty much finished here with the exception of a few illustrations to finish and get off to the publisher and a bit of sewing for myself. I almost feel guilty for taking the time to sew for myself, but not quite!

Anyway, I thought I would share some photos of the new designs that will make their premiere next week at market as well as on our website for you to purchase if you so desire. I designed a new coat, dress and bag. Believe it or not, my brain is already thinking about what will be released for the fall....lots more cool stuff to come!

The Catherine Coat is offered in three lengths: hip, fingertip, and knee. It has 3/4 or full length slightly gathered sleeves with several options for cuffs. Other design elements include a large optional collar, button or tab closure, an Empire waistline, and A-line lower jacket. I had fun with many different fabrics for this coat, ranging from home decorating fabrics, veleveteen, and even some Minky plush for a robe version! Wow, does that stuff ever shed! The results are wonderful, but what a mess!!


The Olivia Dress is also offered in three lengths: hip (for wearing like a tunic), above knee, and mid-calf. It features a large yoke at the neckline with gathered raglan sleeves and has options for contrast fabric at the waist or a tie belt. The dress buttons down the front, so it is fun to play with different looks such as vintage or covered buttons. I played a lot with different fabrics for this design as the brown floral dress is a great border print by Michael Miller. I love the way the border plays along the hem and bodice of the dress!


The Sylvia Sling is the new bag. I based it on the popular hobo style with my own twists here and there. It came out to be a nice roomy bag without being too large and I love the way it hugs your body when carrying it! It is a great way to showcase a group of coordinating fabrics. It has a zippered closure and features many interior pockets. You also have options for the handle details such as a decorative buckle, large buttons, or a fabric flower.


All of the new patterns feature tissue pieces, even the bag! These will go on sale sometime next week. Hope you enjoy your preview!!

March 25, 2009

Knowledge, A Powerful Tool (My recent experience with copyright law)

Today, I am going to post about knowledge. It is probably one of the most powerful tools we can possess. Although it is important to have knowledge, it is more important to know how to use it. I know this sounds like an obvious thing to blog about, but I am going to focus on one type of knowledge in particular, that of copyright law.

Many people think they understand how copyright works and how it serves to protect ones work. I have had an up close and personal experience recently that put the knowledge I thought I had into sharp focus. Here's the gist of copyright. Let's say you write a pattern (I am using that because that is what I do, but you can substitute anything here that you can file a copyright for). When you write something that you don't want someone else to literally copy, you can place a copyright symbol and the year on this work along with your name. This is called giving notice and tells anyone who picks up your work and reads it that they cannot take it as their own. The US Copyright Office recognizes notice as an official copyright without having to file a copy with them. However, if someone does copy your work and you would like to be able to pursue damages, then you need to file your paperwork with the copyright office within five years of official publication (or three months if you want to recover legal costs). Most consider your work officially published the first time you place copyright notice on it or make it available to the public. This was all knowledge that I already had and understood (or mostly understood) in the eight years I have been writing patterns for sale in the marketplace.

I also understood that this meant that someone cannot go to a copy machine and copy the work. This is a direct violation of copyright law, which is why places like Office Depot and Staples will not make copies of such works. They can actually be held liable for those copies! This serves obviously to protect the author's work. Most people understand this portion of the law and for the most part respect it (we hope!).

This next part is where people get confused. Let's say that you come up with a design idea (like a bag with a removable liner) that you think is ingenious and you write a pattern for it. That idea is NOT protected under copyright law. Your interpretation of this idea is, like how you design it and how it works in your pattern, but only through the expression of it in your pattern. Copyright law allows for two people in different places getting the same idea at the same time and acting upon it. Why? Because these two people will interpret the idea in a completely different manner, therefore, both of their works are protected by copyright. If you visit the US Copyright Office's website, this fact is one of the first addressed in the frequently asked questions portion. Because copyright law works in this manner explains why there are a bazillion bag patterns that seem similar or a lot of other types of designs for that matter.

Where copyright does protect is in the area of author's expression (words, illustrations, pictures, etc.). It is that intangible that makes your pattern read, feel, and look differently from someone else's. Every person has their own style of speaking and writing. When that comes through in written text, it becomes unique to that person, and is protected by copyright. Think about it, there are only so many ways to tell someone how to cut a square or rectangle or put a basic bag together. These are things that are in the public domain, and not protectable under copyright. It is what makes your writing and presentation unique that puts you under the copyright umbrella of protection. If someone were to copy that unique style into their own work, they are infringing upon your work!

Being in the publishing business makes the author vulnerable to people who don't understand the way the law works. Unfortunately, we will encounter these people from time to time and it can be very expensive to defend yourself if this happens. I recently encountered one of these people regarding a pattern of mine. She too is a designer in the industry. She was under the mistaken impression that she could copyright an idea. It was interesting because her interpretation of said idea and mine could not have been more different and the best part of the whole thing is that I had never even seen her pattern before! If she or her lawyer had performed due diligence with a proper investigation, I would never have known what I know in-depth now, so you can call me a tad more knowledgeable.

If you think that someone has copied your pattern, the burden of proof is upon you. The best thing to do in a situation like this is to see for yourself if there is anything to it before going any further. You end up saving yourself and others the hassle if you find there is nothing to it. On the other hand, you are prepared if you do find proof that your work has been compromised and you have made it easier for your legal counsel to investigate. In my opinion, any reputable lawyer understands that their reputation is at stake as well and will not work on your behalf regarding this type of allegation if they know there is no colorable claim.

Thankfully, this situation ended in my favor as we were able to secure a release agreement from this person who acknowledged there was no infringement. What I want to impart to you is that we are all vulnerable (even our retailers) to people like this, and unfortunately, if you are put in this situation you may have to defend yourself.

So here is the knowledge you can take from all of this:
1. Copyright law does not protect your idea.
2. Copyright does protect your published work as an "expression".
3. If you think that someone has infringed upon your work, do your homework and investigate!
4. Take action with legal counsel if you have proof that your work has been compromised.
5. Defend yourself, your work, and your reputation if you have to....it is worth it!

March 2, 2009

Ironing Ecstasy!

Hey Everyone! Today I thought I would post about more of my favorite sewing tools, but first things first. You will notice an icon in the right hand column called "March of the Tools". This was ingeniously started by Heather Bailey last year when she blogged about some of her favorite tools, cleverly in the month of March! This year, she decided to design a great icon and ramp up this discussion so that lots of bloggers could participate. Be sure to click on the icon, as it will take you to her site where she will be linking to several of us who will be talking about our favorite tools this month.



This week's post is about Irons....I know, it doesn't exactly make you want to jump for joy, does it? It never did for me, and I iron A LOT! I have been using Rowenta irons for a number of years and love them, but hated having to fill the water reservoir all the time. I think just about every time I was ready to iron, that thing was empty! Finally, I decided to investigate my options. Rowenta makes a steam generator iron (probably not new to a lot of you out there). I decided to give this contraption a try last fall. I admit, the whole "water under pressure" thing sort of freaked me out a little when I first got it, but now I can't imagine life without this wonderful tool. If you iron a lot, it is worth every penny and then some, and here's why....read on!

The main difference is this: the water tank holds 4 cups of water at one time and gives you 1 1/2 hours of CONSTANT steam....this means you can sew like a maniac all day and never fill it with water! The biggest benefit is that your iron makes the best, most penetrating steam on the planet! It makes for practically effortless ironing, plus your iron is lighter weight because the water is in the tank, not in the actual iron. You press the button just under the handle to get steam, but that means that you only get steam when and where you want it, which is great also. The heat settings are the same as a regular iron, but one of the best features is that you can turn down the heat and the steam settings separately, so you can use a gentle amount of steam on delicate or even synthetic fabrics (like polar fleece) without damaging anything. This differs from a regular iron in that most of them depend on a high heat setting to generate steam, thus no steam at a low heat setting. I just can't say enough great things about this tool!



Of course, once I purchased this iron, I realized that my 16 year old rickety ironing board had to go. The steam generator really needs a stable place to sit, and not just on the end of the ironing board where it may take up valuable space. So I splurged and bought the professional Rowenta ironing board as well. It is extra wide with a shelf out to the side, perfect for holding the water tank/ironing apparatus without being in the way or risking it taking a trip to the floor. There is also a handy shelf below for storing stuff if you need to. I put my extra water and a measuring cup there so that when I need to refill the tank, I have everything I need at my fingertips. The added feature of this board is that it is composed of a steel mesh under the pad so that the steam can fully penetrate the items you are ironing. This helps you to get the most of that steam, with no moisture buildup on the board itself. I bought mine at Bed Bath and Beyond with a 20% off coupon.

Lastly, my most recent purchase was for a sleeve board. It is a miniature ironing board, really. It is made for ironing shoulder seams, cuffs, sleeve bands, etc. It may sound like a silly thing to have, but it is wonderful also. What I like best is that I can get small things slipped onto it without creating a crease where I don't want it and I can dictate the direction a seam is pressed very easily. If you don't have one of these, it is worth thinking about, especially if you iron small things. I picked mine up for about $15 at a local JoAnn's, but I am sure there are a lot of other stores and online shops that sell them.


February 20, 2009

Sewing Madness and a Helpful Sewing Tool

Hello again! It has truly been design/sewing madness around here over the past month. I am knee deep in preparations for the book as well as spring market in Pittsburgh. How does time slip away so quickly? I have a LOT to do between now and May, but somehow, it will magically get done...amazing how that happens!


I thought I would post today about one of my favorite tools for the sewing room. It is called pattern tracing cloth. Ever heard of it? I could kick myself that this stuff has apparently been around for some time and I was stupidly using tissue paper instead! Pattern tracing cloth is a nylon product that is 36" wide. It is nearly transparent, making it a perfect tool for tracing patterns. It is especially helpful for me during my design process. I use pattern drafting software for my skirts, tunics, and the newest jacket designs. Basically, these drafts are printed on large roll paper for me to test and tweak. The paper itself is a bit thick and terrible if you want to pin through it onto fabric, so I started tracing specific sizes onto tissue. You can just imagine how the tissue pieces were always too small, resulting in my having to tape several together just to get one piece traced...it was a ridiculous process and one that I hated! Not only is tissue (and we're talking gift tissue here) hard to handle, it tears easily too. You should have a really good mental image of the mess I had going!

Well, not too long ago, I stumbled across this pattern tracing cloth. It is in one word, WONDERFUL! Because of its width, it is easy to trace big pieces, and it does not tear! The brand I use (Staple Sewing Aids) also has convenient red dots that are spaced 1" apart for easy expansion/contraction of pieces. I usually use a pencil or ballpoint pen to trace the pieces, cut them out, and use them multiple times. I know what you are thinking....how does this impact you if you are not a designer? Well, it is a great way to alter commercial pattern pieces for yourself. You can make the desired alterations to a piece and then lay the tracing cloth over the top and trace the altered piece. Label it, and you have a piece you can use for years to come. This tracing cloth is also wonderful for those patterns that come on regular paper that you have to trace to use anyway.

If you can't find this product locally, you can purchase online many places. Sew Thankful, a nice online shop, has it in convenient 5 yard packages for a reasonable price. There are other websites as well where you can purchase it by the yard. If you do much garment sewing, this product is a godsend, so check it out.

On the design front, it looks like there will be three new designs for spring market. I will be posting sneak peeks of those soon, as the sewing progresses. Today, I have rather cryptic photos of some things I am working on for the book...can't say a lot about them, but thought you might enjoy the fabric combinations....truly yummy!


Also, check out The Late Bloomer's blog. Elizabeth FINALLY finished her Sabrina tunic and it looks great. I secretly hope she wears it to market with a cute cardigan or something (hint, hint) so I can see it in the flesh, so to speak!
Oh, and one more thing, my new favorite place to shop online is Fabric.com.....they have a fabulous selection of all kinds of fabrics, including Dupioni silk (yum!), decorator fabrics, notions, patterns, and more. I have gotten into serious trouble over there, so consider yourself warned....
Have a wonderful weekend...hope you have time to get some sewing in!

January 23, 2009

Fab New Pillow for a Fab New Mag!

Hey All! Just thought I would check in for a little while this Friday afternoon and give you a sneak peek of a fabulous new pillow design. I was contacted by the editor of a new sewing magazine by Interweave called Stitch to propose a project design for one of their upcoming issues. Have you seen this magazine yet? It has a really neat fresh vibe and it is loaded with lots of cool ideas and inspiration. Be sure to check it out! Here are a couple of photos of the design I came up with. It is a large floor pillow, perfect for flopping around and doing something divinely leisurely. It showcases Paula Prass's new fabric line from Michael Miller called Flights of Fancy. I used the summer colorway, since the mag wanted vibrant colors. I really love the way the stripe sets off the whole design.



The pillow project will be in an upcoming issue, so I will be sure to let you know which one, once I find out more info.

Guess that is about it for now....got to get busy on those book designs!

January 8, 2009

New Year, Fresh Start

It has been a WHILE, I know. I never meant to be away for so long! It seems since my last post that only a few days has passed....the holidays and post market blitz were on! If I wasn't filling orders, I was decorating, and if I wasn't decorating, I was Christmas shopping, and if I was doing all of that, I was entertaining and cooking! It is time for things to get back into a routine now that 2009 has arrived.

My goal is to get back on the "regular posting" routine. It just seems difficult to find time to get it crammed in somewhere, but if I can commit to once a week, I hope that it will eventually become a habit (fingers crossed!). There is a lot I would like to share with you this year, mainly techniques and tips that I have picked up along the way that makes my sewing life easier, and I would love to make yours easier as well. Of course, as I create new designs, I will let you in on the occasional sneak peek.

I am getting ready to plunge into book writing. I talk with my editor tomorrow to iron out some details, then I will be busy at the computer and sewing machine creating all the goodies that you will get to enjoy in 2010! It will be exciting to see it all come together over the coming months and my hope is that I will be able to give you a glimpse into that process as well as a peek at those designs as well.

Let's see, I left off last time showing you how the booth at fall market in Houston went together. I never did show you the outfits I wore on each day, nor did I show you some close-ups of other stuff that I had in the booth. Below are some photos from the show.....gosh, it seems like a long time ago now!




I have already put in my paperwork for the next show, which is in Pittsburgh, May 15-17. I have the designs that I will do dancing in my brain, soon to be into the computer and hopefully in fabric before too long.

I do want to post that there is a great set of photos for the new Sophia Trench Coat over at A Joyful Soul Fabrics' blog. Joy has sewn this coat and there are pictures of her modeling it....thanks, Joy for your kind words and may I say that you look smashing!

So, here is to a New Year, and many more posts about the wonderful world of sewing.......